Changes in the strukture of nutrition of Dnieper Ukraine population in the second half of the 18th and 19th centuries. The potato spreading and its implementing in the daily diet
Keywords:
history of nutrition, food revolution, potato, Dnieper Ukraine (Naddniaprianshchyna), Kyiv Governorate, Chernihiv GovernorateAbstract
Introduction. The field of the history of nutrition is experiencing active development in Ukraine, as evidenced by recent studies from authors like Oleksii Sokyrko and Ihor Netudykhatkin. However, certain aspects, particularly the introduction and proliferation of new crops, remain insufficiently explored and are only briefly mentioned in historical and ethnographic works. This study focuses on the spread of potatoes, a now traditional crop in Ukraine that was initially unknown in the early 18th century.
Methods. This study employs conventional historical research methods along with methodologies from related disciplines such as ethnography and literary studies. The cataloging process, primarily following a chronological framework, played a significant role. This approach facilitated the organization of information regarding the spread of potatoes in Dnieper Ukraine (Naddniaprianshchyna), considering factors like location, timeframe, and settlement type.
Results. Employing general historical research methods and drawing on related sciences such as ethnography and literary studies, the article investigates the appearance, dissemination, and rapid integration of potatoes into the gardens and tables of Ukrainian peasants. The findings reveal that potatoes emerged in Dnieper Ukraine (Naddniaprianshchyna) in the second half of the 18th century, initially gaining popularity among urban dwellers. This introduction and spread were part of the broader European “food revolution” marked by the active incorporation of crops from the American continent into local diets. Due to its high yield and minimal space requirements, potatoes complemented traditional cereal crops without displacing them. Over the course of a century, potatoes significantly contributed to the food security of the region. While virtually unknown in the Kyiv Governorate in the mid-18th century, potatoes constituted 10% of the total harvest a century later. In the Chernihiv Governorate, this figure reached nearly 27% by the end of the 19th century.
Conclusions. Thus, within a century, potatoes secured a prominent place in the diet of Dnieper Ukraine inhabitants, ranking as the second main product after rye. The versatile vegetable quickly found its way into the recipes of rural traditional dishes like borscht and dumplings, eventually becoming a staple in Ukrainian cuisine by the late 19th century.
Keywords: history of nutrition, food revolution, potato, Dnieper Ukraine (Naddniaprianshchyna), Kyiv Governorate, Chernihiv Governorate
References
Afanasyev-Chuzhbynskyi, O. (2016). Essays of the Dnipro. A priori [in Ukrainian].
Arandarenko, N. (1852). Notes on the Poltava province. Part III. Additions (Economic notes). Poltava In the printing house of the Provincial Government [in Russian].
Braudel, F. (1995). Civilization and Capitalism, 15th–18th Century, vol. 1: The Structures of Everyday . Osnovy [in Ukrainian].
Descriptions of the Kyiv Viceroyalty of the 70s and 80s of the 18th century. (1989). Scientific thought [in Ukrainian].
Dominique de la Fliese (1854). Ethnographic description of peasants of Kyiv province.
Dragomanov, M. (1889–1892). Austro-Ruthenian memories. Lviv. In the printing house of the Shevchenko Society [in Ukrainian].
Fedir Vovk’s Cryptads: The Invention of the Scabrous. Ethnography of Sexuality at the turn of the 20th century (2018). Krytyka [in Ukrainian].
Kvitka-Osnovyanenko, G. (1931). Soldier portrait. Lviv. At the expense of “Prosvita” [in Ukrainian].
Markevych, N. (1860), Customs, beliefs, drinks and cuisine of Little Russians. Kyiv. In the printing house of I. and A. Davidenko.
Miloradovich, V (1902). The life of a Lubny peasant (Food). Kyiv antiquity, 6, p. 392–434.
Miloradovich, V. (1903). The life of a Lubny peasant (Around the home: a flower garden, an apiary, a garden, a vegetable garden). Kyiv antiquity, 2, p. 182–217.
Montanari, M (2009). Hunger and Abundance. The History of Food in Europe. Alexandria.
Mozgovoy, V. (1881). Essay on the Kyiv province. Kyiv. In the provincial printing house.
Mytsyuk, O. (1938). Essays on the socio-economic history of Subcarpathian Rus. Volume. 2. Prague. R. Grdilchka Printing House [in Ukrainian].
Netudykhatkin, I. (2018). Old Cuisine of Kyiv Metropolitans. Horobets [in Ukrainian].
Ostras, E. (2003). The yield of grain crops, bread prices and the supply of bread to the population in the left-bank Ukraine in the second half of the 18th century. Donetsk National University [in Ukrainian].
Pashkevych, G. (2019) Bread of ancient Ukraine. "Skyf" publishing house. Publisher Oleg Filyuk [in Ukrainian].
Pavlovich, V. (1862). Materials for geography and statistics of Russia. Ekaterinoslav province. Saint Petersburg. Printing house of the General Staff Department.
Proceedings of the ethnographic and statistical expedition to the Western Russian region. South-Western department. Materials and studies, collected by P. P. Chubynsky. Volume 7. Issue 2. (1877). St. Petersburg.
Rusov, A (1898). Description of the Chernihiv province. Volume 1. Chernigov. Printing house of the Provincial Zemstvo.
Schmidt, A. (1863). Materials for geography and statistics of Russia. Kherson province. Part two. Saint Petersburg. In Kalinovsky’s printing house.
Shafonsky, A. (1851). Chernihiv governorship topographical description. Kyiv. At the university printing house.
Shchepotyev, V. (1915). Several statistical data from the life of the Little Russian province (current Poltava and Chernihiv) at the beginning of the 19th century. Poltava. Electric Printing house of G. I. Markevych.
Sokyrko, O. (2019). Culinary Journey to the Hetmanate. Tempor [in Ukrainian].
State Statistics Service (2021). Balance and consumption of basic food products by the population of Ukraine. https://ukrstat.gov.ua/druk/publicat/kat_u/2021/zb/07/Zb_Bsph_2020.pdf [in Ukrainian].
Statistical description of the Kyiv province, published by Ivan Fundukley. Part I (1852). St. Petersburg. In the printers of the Ministry of Internal Affairs.
Statistical description of the Kyiv province, published by Ivan Fundukley. Part II (1852). St. Petersburg. In the printers of the Ministry of Internal Affairs.
Statistical Yearbook of the Poltava Provincial Zemstvo for 1895 (1895). Poltava
Szczepanowski, S. (1888). The misery of Galicia in numbers. In Lviv. Gubrynowicz and Schmidt [in Polnish]
Voloshyn, Y (2023). Parish community. Pyriatyn protopopia of the second half of the 18th century. UCU [in Ukrainian].
Yaremenko, M. (2012) Pleasures of the educated in Ukraine of the 18th century (about the culture of tea, coffee and wine consumption by the church elite). Kyiv Academy, 10, p. 117–184 [in Ukrainian].








